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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.